February 12th, 2010 by admin

A Woman's Guide to Basic Tire Care
Women certainly are not helpless. But sometimes we are a little overwhelmed working a 40-hour week, taking care of the children, cooking, cleaning, and doing laundry. The car is just another added burden when there isn’t a man around to tinker with it. For the woman who finds herself in this situation, this is a short primer on routine tire care that will extend the life of your tires and hopefully make your life a little bit easier. Check Tire Pressure Regularly: Tire pressure should be checked whenever you suspect a problem or at a minimum, seasonally. Symptoms of improper tire pressure include excess wear and squeeling when going around a corner (for under-inflated tires) and reduced traction (for over-inflated tires). Even the temperature can affect your tire pressure. Check your owner’s manual to find where they’ve posted the proper tire pressure (usually on one of the doors) and be sure to keep it at that level. An improperly inflated tire not only wears quicker, it can also be dangerous when stopping and can cause tread separation. You can purchase a tire-pressure gauge at your local auto parts store, use a gauge at the gas station or ask your tire dealer to check it for you. Have Your Tires Rotated: Tires should be rotated every 5000 - 6000 miles. For various reasons, all four tires on a car do not wear the same. The purpose of the tire rotation is to allow for even wear and an extended life for your tires. Some manufacturers recommend “cross-rotation” (moving the right-front tire to the left-rear, etc.). Check your owner’s manual for it’s recommendations. Have your tire dealer rotate your tires regularly. Check Your Wheel Alignment: If you’ve hit a pothole or scraped your tire on a curb, your wheels may have been thrown out of alignment. Symptoms of wheels that are out of alignment are excessive wear (one tire may wear more than the others) and steering problems. You may notice that your car veers to the side when you’re on a straight road or the car doesn’t steer properly in a turn. Unless you notice any of these symptons, you should have your alignment checked annually. Have Your Wheels Balanced at the Same Time They’re Rotated: An improperly balanced wheel will cause a vibration at higher speeds (50-70 MPH) which is noticable in the steering wheel (if a front tire is out of balance) or in the seat (if a rear tire is out of balance). It will also increase wear of shock absorbers, struts and suspensions. If you notice any of these symptoms, you should have your tire dealer take a look. He will need to locate the heavier part of the tire and attach a lead weight opposite it to counter-balance it. Unless you notice any of these symptoms, you should have your wheels balanced every time you have them rotated (every 5000 - 6000 miles). Debbie Pettitt Everything Tires http://everythingtires.com Debbie Pettitt is webmaster for Everything Tires. For additional articles and information regarding tires, visit http://everythingtires.com.
Source: www.ArticlePros.com

Your Mechanic Can Be a Valuable Asset When Purchasing A Used Car
Car dealers are not particularly well liked, and knowing as many of them as I do, I can understand why that might be the case. I run an import shop in Florida that specializes in late model luxury imports. I’ve been in business for quite some time, and I have heard plenty of horror stories from customers regarding other dealerships. In my opinion, I think the majority of car dealerships one will encounter are reputable, by and large. I say “by and large” because some dealers I know use nickel and dime methods to maximize their profits, which I disagree with. Personally, I would rather give the customer a quality auto at a fair price and consequently gain a lifetime customer, but that’s a topic for another article. One of the more recent horror stories I heard involved someone who had purchased a vehicle that was leaking oil. For those of you that know anything about cars, you know that this is nothing to be taken lightly. The customer was assured by the dealership that this older, yet low mileage used car was in pristine condition. Here’s where it gets interesting… Before the sale, the customer asked if she could have the car inspected by her mechanic. The dealership did everything they possibly could to keep that from happening, and succeeded. They told her that they would have their own mechanics do a “twenty point inspection” which would save her the time and expense of having her mechanic take a look. Unbelievable! Since the customer parked her car on a busy street where there were already several oil spots, she never noticed the leaking until after her ridiculously short thirty day warranty was up. Her mechanic would have spotted an oil leak the minute he had the car up on the rack. As disheartening as this story is, there is a valuable lesson to be learned here. Car buyers, unless they are dealing with a dealer they are familiar with and whom they trust, should seriously consider having a mechanic check out any used car they are interested in (preferrably the local certified manufacturer dealer of the automobile make they are considering). I have had several first time customers ask me if they can have the car independently inspected and I am always happy to oblige. Take my word for it, the only dealers who would frown upon independent inspections are those who have something to hide. To learn more visit Spanos Imports of Daytona Florida visit http://www.spanosimports.com/
Source: www.ArticlePros.com

Demystifying The Tire Sidewall Code
So, you need new tires for your car or truck, but how do you know what to buy? What do all those alphanumeric codes printed on the tire sidewalls mean, anyway? If you’re in the market for new tires, you may simply want to replace your worn tires with exactly the same tire it came with. But you MAY want to consider an upgrade. If you know how to read the tire sidewalls, chock full of valuable information, you’ve got an advantage over most people and are prepared to make an informed decision. So let’s get underway! Tire Size Markings (example: P215/65R15 89H) Broken down: P = Passenger Other designations are LT = Light Truck T = Temporary (spare tire) 215 is the width (in millimeters) of the tire from sidewall to sidewall. A wider tire has more grip but the bad news is that you lose fuel economy, hear more noise and the tires don’t work as well in the rain. 65 is the aspect ratio The aspect ratio is the ratio of sidewall height to tire width. With regards to aspect ratio, the larger the number, the taller the tire sidewall. Tall (60-75) is great for a quiet ride but causes howling in turns. Short (35-55) is better for handling–more for sports cars. R indicates Radial. This means it is constructed with a series of support belts sideways under the tread. Other designations include B for Belted Bias and D for Diagonal Bias The standard, and what you’ll see most often, is R. 15 is the wheel (or rim) diameter, in inches. 89 is the load index H is the speed rating Speed ratings indicate the top speed under ideal conditions. Higher-rated tires are usually made of softer rubber and will have shorter UTQG tread life. Here are a few of the more common speed ratings: R= 106, S=112, T=118, U=124, H=130, V=149, W=168, Y=186. Along with this speed rating, you have a load index which indicates the approximate weight the tire can carry. Some of the more common load weights are as follows: 85 = 1,135 pounds, 86 = 1,168 pounds, 87 = 1,201 pounds, 88 = 1,235 pounds. UTQG Ratings Passenger car tires are accompanied by a UTQG Rating (Uniform Tire Quality Grading, mandated by the Federal Government) which rates the tread life of tires by looking at tread wear, traction and temperature resistance. The UTQG Rating is usually found opposite the tire size markings and will be in three separate ratings: treadwear, traction and temperature. The treadware grade standard is 100. A grade of 200 means the tread would wear twice as well as a tire graded 100. Traction grades run from AA to C, with AA being the highest grade and C meaning the tire brakes poorly on both wet concrete and wet asphalt. Temperature grades rate the tire’s resistance to and ability to dispel heat. Those grades are A (resists heat well), B (not as good as A) and C (passes minimum safety standards.) Keep in mind that heavy loads, under-inflation of the tires, and high speeds can all affect the tire temperature. You should note that these tire grades rate tires measured under controlled conditions. Factors such as driving habits, road conditions, climate, etc., are not considerations and may affect the actual performance of your tire. DOT DOT (Department of Transportation) indicates the tire is in compliance with applicable DOT safety standards. Next to DOT is an identification or serial number–codes that designate where and when the tire was produced. You’ll also find other information on the sidewall such as the type and composition of the tire, the maximum cold inflation (PSI) and maximum load in pounds. So as you can see, tires carry a huge amount of information. But it’s really not all that complicated once you learn to read the code. Debbie Pettitt is webmaster for Everything Tires, your tire resource. For more information on tires, visit http://everythingtires.com
Source: www.ArticlePros.com